Winter, 2008
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Umami….
It is true, one usually does not align Pacific Rim culture and language with living in Maine. That being said, however, there’s a scientific discovery that has recently come to light that is really good to chew on. It is Umami. A Japanese term, that translates as "delicious flavor." Scientific methods have proven that humans have a fifth sense, Umami, which by using the taste mechanism constitutes savory, delicious flavor. Now along with the tastes of sweet, sour, bitter and salty comes deliciousness. I would say that smoked salmon, lobsters, blueberry pie, fresh goat milk cheese and all the other fabulous foods created here in Maine by artisanal producers could be categorically identified as being “umami”.
Umami was first discovered in 1907 by Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda who set out on his quixotic quest for the unknown taste, the sensation that makes what we enjoy taste delicious. After many years of lonely and patient chemistry, he discovered the secret molecule that creates the sense of delicious flavor. The molecule is glutamic acid, the precursor of L-glutamate. Everything from aged cheese to ketchup is rich in this amazing little amino acid, but I will tell that story later. Amazing what a little, free form amino acid has historically done for food over the ages. Ninety years after Ikeda’s discovery, his theory was unequivocally confirmed in 2000 and 2002, when two distinct receptors were discovered on the tongue that can sense only glutamates. Honoring Ikeda’s original discovery, they have been named "umami receptors." These discoveries of umami receptors on the tongue confirmed once and for all that umami is not a figment of a pleasure seeking person’s imagination. The tongue uses the taste of umami to define deliciousness. Simply keep in mind that umami explains many perplexing idiosyncrasies of the worlds of food and cooking; it is the reason that some stuff tastes so damn good.
We first read about umami in Edward Behr’s wonderful little-known newsletter, The Art of Eating, which is published quarterly and hails from Vermont. For intelligent writing and creative ideas that pay scrupulous attention to the details of food production as well as a serious focus on the pleasurable aspects of eating, this newsletter is a must-have for all foodies. Not to mention that it is beautifully compiled with an artistic touch rarely found in eating journals. There is no advertising. Simply a pleasure to read. For more info check out the artofeating.com. You will experience umami just by reading his interesting writing.
Ritrovio Oil & Vinegar
This selection of oil and vinegar is imported from Italy by the award-winning Ritrovo Company in Seattle. A member of Slow Foods, their passion for excellence and delicious discoveries have introduced us to prestigious artisans in Italy who produce incredible, organic hand-crafted foods in small batches. The Trampetti Olive Oil comes from the gold-coast of the olive oil region and is considered by many to be the finest olive oil produced in Italy. Same day processing of early hand-harvested olives creates an olive oil that has an intense, yet wonderful blend of flavors from the Umbrian grasses, fresh herbs and artichokes. Acetorium Blueberry Vinegar is an amazingly rich creation that is ideal for marinating game or beef. Handcrafted by esteemed winemaker Joseph Reterer and German master vinegar maker Robert Bauer this vinegar is made from fine wine instead of using flavor infusions. Unbelievable stuff!
Tortilla & Black Bean Pie
I made this at home over the weekend and served it with a beet green salad with walnut oil dressing. It was a winner. Serve with sour cream and fresh, chopped cilantro on the side. Takes 20 minutes to prepare. 20 minutes to bake.
Ingredients:
4 -10 inch tortillas
3 TBL canola oil
1 large onion, diced
1 jalapeno chile, minced, seeds removed
2 garlic cloves
2 TBL Cumin or Mexican Spice Blend
1 tsp kosher salt, fresh ground pepper
2 (15 ounce) cans black beans, drained
1 LB Ground Pork
12 ounces beer or 1½ cups of water
10 oz frozen corn
4 scallions thinly sliced
2 ½ cups montery jack cheese
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Instructions:
1 Preheat oven to 400. Trim tortillas to fit a 9-inch springform pan, using the bottom section as your guide.
2. Heat 2 TBL oil in a skillet over medium heat. onion, jalapeno, garlic and cumin. Add salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally until onion is soft, about 5 minutes. Add 1 TBl oil and ground pork. Cook until done.
3. Heat beans and beer (or water) in skillet, bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium: simmer until the liquid has almost evaporated, 7-10 minutes. Stir in corn and most of the scallions, remove from heat. Add pork mixture. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Fit one tortilla already trimmed in the bottom of the springform pan. Layer with ¼ of the beans/pork mixture and ½ cup of cheese. Repeat three times, using 1 cup of cheese on the top layer.
5.
Bake until hot and the cheese has melted, about 20 minutes. Unmold the pie, dot with remaining scallions. Slice into 4 wedges. Serve promptly.
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